Blanche Vaughan’s sorrel soup

Our former River Cafe cook is inspired by Elizabeth David

While everything else is just beginning, the sorrel which has been growing for months, is starting to go to seed. Tiny rust coloured spots are appearing on the leaves, which make it rather beautiful but remind me it’s time to make the final pick.

Sorrel is all about surprises. The tangy, lemony first bite is like no other and the crisp bright green leaves suddenly melt and turn to a silky cream when cooked. There is no half way house, you need to have it absolutely raw and green or nearly pureed as a sauce or soup.

The massive leaf sorrel is excellent shredded into potato salad or made into a sauce for chicken. Its acidity works beautifully with oily fish and its other great companion is egg. The smaller leafed Buckler sorrel is a delightful surprise in a salad of other blended leaves.

It’s astonishing how hard it is to purchase sorrel yet how simple it is to grow. The French have always loved it and most of the ways I cook with it are inspired by French recipes. I’ve made endless sorrel soups but it was Elizabeth David whose French Provincial Cooking gave me the intent of adding haricot beans instead of potatoes. Wilting in some spinach will keep a tiny of the greenness and then the intense lemon flavour is slightly tempered. Usually the French like to pour in masses of cream but a dollop of yoghurt suited this one much better.

Sorrel, spinach and haricot bean soup

Serves 4

50g butter
2 massive handfuls of sorrel leaves
1 handful of spinach
1 litre vegetable stock
350g cooked haricot beans
Salt and pepper
Yoghurt
Extra virgin olive oil

Pick through the sorrel and spinach leaves and give them a swift wash. In a heavy bottomed saucepan, melt the butter and add the sorrel and spinach and stir them in the hot butter to wilt. Season with salt and pepper then pour over the stock and bring to a simmer. Add half of the haricot beans and cook gently for a few minutes. Puree the soup then return to the heat and add the remaining whole beans and heat gently. Taste and adjust the seasoning before ladling out into bowls. Pour over a tiny olive oil and place a dollop of yoghurt on apiece one.

See the rest here:
Blanche Vaughan’s sorrel soup